Grego family Adventures

 
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  1. Society Islands
  2. Aitutaki, Cook Islands
  3. Palmerston, Cook Islands
  4. Kingdom of Tonga

 

Tahiti onward to Bora Bora...

We have finally left the island of Moorea. We ended up spending a week more than we would have like but we didn't complain much since it was so much fun. We were about 20 boats in this anchorage where 10 boats had kids ages ranging from 8 to 17! Reminded me of my youth, ahhh the wonderful memories!!! Our passage was a weather window of just one night. It looks like 11 boats took advantage of this weather window, cause of the 5 I knew that were leaving, another bunch pulled out at the same time as us. NO one wants to have to use fuel since it's about 7 bucks a gallon.

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Before we left we wanted to load the boat up with fresh fruits so I went to the house that, sometimes, has a table with fruit out in front. It was early, 8am, and all was quite but I was able to get someone's attention inside. They knew I was coming for a stalk of bananas cause I came by the afternoon before to place my order. The mom came out holding a very large stalk of bananas and I became a bit nervous how much this was going to cost me. Considering that everything here is about 5x's as expensive than home!!! I started to ask her how much and she asked me if I had kids on my boat. I said yes, I have two and this is my daughter Seanna with me. Seanna always has to go with us on errands!!!! Then she said, "I would like to give you these bananas". I was shocked! I wanted to make sure there was nothing lost in translation and asked again, "how much"? She said she wanted no money. Then she floored me even more when she carried this big stalk to my dingy and said wait here. She came back with a large basket full of fruit. I don't know the names of them but one was their local apple, which look purple and green outside and the size of an apple, and Paul said it taste like a large concord grape on the inside. Then she gave me a few long green pods that she said the kids would love and she was right. The kids open the pod and take out the white cover seeds and eat the white. I took pictures of it. Then she gave me some ripe bananas for now, 6 papaya and two other fruit (I had different names for this one fruit but it's green with little soft spikes on it used for drinks). When I came home to tell Paul that I didn't pay a dime for this he couldn't believe it. I did leave the lady some gifts...I couldn't just leave her empty handed. I gave her wine, shoes and lipsticks. I think this made her happy.

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We had a Catana raft up last night. We met up with our friends on Da Mojo and Ocealys who each have two kids plus some guest on board. At around 5 pm we all rafted up and had a "pot luck" dinner. It was a bunch of fun. Total of 8 kids all the same age. I haven't laughed so much in a long time! Yesterday, we went surfing with Da Mojo (gosh, I love this family) and David, the dad, took Merric surfing on his long board. It was the coolest thing to see Merric in front surfing a wave. He also did some great boogie boarding. He already has incredible balance jumping on the surf board so now I know what to get him for X-mas!!!! I, on the other hand, paddled my Kayak to the surf spot and ate it on the first wave and lost my spare sunglasses, haha. I have been Kayaking for over an hour a day or swimming. Getting back on track...now if I could just quit the drinking every night! Mom, you would be upset with me...I didn't put sun block on that well yesterday and I am paying the price! OUCH.

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Yep, we have found Nemo in Huahine, Society islands. Just laying back enjoying life. Seanna says she is happy to be 4 but can't wait till she is 17. I told her she will get there one day! Don' know why she picked that age??? I preferred 23 myself.

We are on our way to Tahaa tomorrow and should be in Bora Bora by the 2nd or 3rd to pick up Alex and Kristin. We are REALLY getting syked up for that! Keep getting incredible reports on the beauty of that place. We also got word that if I thought Tahiti was expensive that Bora Bora will take my breath away. So, I stocked up here. Good think Alex and Kristin are staying on the boat and I love to cook, eh!

Thank you for all the cute emails to Seanna on her birthday. She really loved hearing them and was so excited to get them, she kept saying "Awwww". She is deeply touched by family. We always have to tell stories about family or I use threats that Pierre will come down on them if they don't eat their dinner. Merric loves that! He wants to be just like Pierre...big and strong. So, sometimes they ask me if Uncle Pierre eats certain foods and it's easy to say yes. All of you are always in our thoughts and daily conversations. Speaking of being attached to family. Seanna has a bathing suit that has seen much better days and the straps lost their elastic and the butt is sagging but since grandma gave it to her she never wants to give it away. She told me that, "I don't want you giving this to any Indians..I love it cause Grand mama gave it to me, okay mommy". I said, "Okay" We always gave away our old clothes to the Kuna Indians in the San Blas incase you were wondering why she said that...haha.

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We spent a magical two final weeks in the French Polynesian islands at Bora Bora. Alex and Kristen came to visit for 10 days and we had a blast. The weather was just perfect. The week before they came we had strong winds and it was hard to do anything with the boat so just a few days before they came I made a wish and threw a few coins in the water. The next day Paul got the report that the weather was going to be picture perfect the day after they arrive. It's one of those places where it's not hard to entertain guest...the island just does it's magic. The waters of Bora Bora are different shades of blue...it's not rare to be cruising on the dingy or big boat and see the wild life just below you. Although everything in Bora Bora is very expensive we didn't feel the pinch since I was stocked and being on the boat was better than any restaurant. You should have seen Alex and Kristen whippin out the home made tortillas for Fajita night. Coco coladas, mojitos, margaritas, tahiti beer, wine and shots toasted the sunset every night. It was very hard for me to let them go!

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We are now underway to the Cook Islands and are on day two of a three to four night passage. We have already skipped two islands because the weather isn't permitting us to get into the cut and we don't want to take the chance. As we passed the first island I spotted a whale doing a show. The humpback whale jumped up a few times then did the classic back flop. It was just beautiful. At the same time my line went out and had a Mahi on but just as I got it close to the boat it got off....

Aitutaki, Cook Islands

We made it(Aitutaki, Cook islands) into the Extremely narrow snakelike cut.... into a VERY small anchorage with three other cats and one small mono haul. It is full of coral heads everywhere and doesn't leave for any mistakes. You have to be able to turn on a dime. We hit the cut at high outgoing tide. Paul was full steam ahead and we barley moved. Most of the cats here anchored off the cut for two days before they were brave enough to come in. We saw them in here so we just progressed. We went to 6 feet (at full high tide) at the 1/2 way mark into the cut and didn't go above 10. We have two anchors out since there is NO swing space but we are not complaining. Everyone here was ready to lend a helping hand to get us in and anchored. It is just great! The view is spectacular beyond the rusty harbor. The lagoon is very shallow so it dries at low tide and so far the people we have met have just charmed us. They wave at us like they know us and we've been friends for years. The color of the water here reminds us of the Bahamas (every shade of blue) and there are tons of islands in the shallow lagoon, that we can reach with the dingy, to go visit. We plan to do some kayaking and snorkeling tomorrow. We had lunch at the wharf bar and had a full meal with beers for $32 NZ dollars. We are back to normal prices, yeah! I don't plan on cooking much here, hahahaah. After the huge $$ inflation we saw in the French Polynesian we forgot that there are places out here that are "affordable".... I am really happy we stopped.

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8/23/08

Still just relaxing here in Aitutaki, Cook Islands. Did you know that this is where they filmed Survivor, Cook Islands. It's not rare to see a local with a Survivor hat or shirt on here :). They said that they filmed for 6 months and hired everyone on the island. They were a class act! Nice to know they were not taken advantage of cause the people here wear their shirts on their sleeves around here. The beaches and view here are incredible and I can see why they choose this place.

On the second or third day, we tried our hand at fishing but were not that successful. We caught one medium sized snapper and Paul didn't feel like cleaning it so when we saw a local couple coming back into port we went up to them to say hello and asked if they got anything? They didn't get much so Paul gave them our fish. Well, that ONE LITTLE show of generosity has then, over the past few days, landed us as the garden of Eden. Mii (Me'E) and Richard work by harvesting sea grapes, which is compared to caviar and sells to the local market, it then gets flown over to the other larger islands near by. We have had our share of sea grapes!! Which look like a small bunch of green grapes about the size of your thumb. They are very salty.... They sell it for $10 a pound. You can serve it as a salad but we really liked it on a cracker with cheese. Mii and Richard stop over every day and drop off grape fruit, passion fruit, bananas, guava, paw-paws (papaya), lemon, sour oranges, sea grapes, coconuts and star fruit. We told them we were leaving tomorrow and then they brought over more of the above but in MUCH larger quantities. Our water line is disappearing...haha. Shoot, I made a meat sauce and I put some papaya in it and you know what...it was awesome. I also made a papaya, banana and coconut cake that was out of this world (I used aunt Johanne's mango bread recipe and subsituted the mango for papaya...this time I had so much ripe banana I put one in too.... please pass that on to her and tell her I think about her every time I take out the recipe). Don't know what we are going to do with the rest since I have already donated it to other cruisers that have come by.

We are going to stat making our way to Palmerston Atoll and we have been given several boxes, stalks of bananas and other goodies to bring to them. There is quite the story behind the island and the people who live there. Try to google it and see if anything comes up. It's about an Englishman who worked on a ship back in the late 1800's who visited the atoll. He later went back with 4 wives and set up camp at each N, E, S and W motu and had a bunch of kids. He taught them about in-breading and forbade it and that kept them healthy and strong. They all have the same last name Marsters. Apparently, when a boat arrives a family will come out to greet you. The first family to great you becomes the "host family" and they take care of you from morning till night with parties, dinners and activities. They don't have much but love to have people come visit. I have cleaned out my lockers and have a huge bag of goodies myself to leave them.

8/27/08

Sitting here with about 8 other boats enjoying Palmerston atoll. On our way here we caught more than our share of fresh Mahi so we opted to donate a large ziplock bag and set up a fish/pot luck party on the beach with our host Edward and his wife Shirley and get all the cruisers together. Had a nice time dodging rain showers and having a BBQ.

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Imagine this, here I am in the middle of the pacific ocean, 1000 miles away from civilization and the Shirley was asking me if Angelina Jolie and Brad Pit had their babies yet! There are only 12 adults on the island and 25 children. It is a well structured island with the adults in all levels (secretary, customs, immigrations, inspectors, one police officer and teacher). The school is really nice and it set up with curriculum from New Zealand. The children here are just charmers and love to talk to the cruisers.

I am a little tipsy from a few rum drinks tonight so I will write you later....

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Homemade bbq with coconuts and palm leaves       Layer with more leaves and cook for 20 mins.                Enjoy!

The setting: Palmerston Atoll, Cook Islands

Dusk.... just as the sun it setting, we are anchored off the atoll since we cannot access it. That means we are literally anchored in the ocean on a shelf that drops dramatically. We have had a wonderful day on the island of Palmerston with Edward and his family along with all the other funny cruisers out here. We are happy to be back to the boat as it was a hot day with no wind this afternoon. A big change from the crap we were in this morning...rain, wind reversals and currents. In side the atoll has some of the coolest coral formations to snorkel and the water is extremely clear.

Well, back to where I started....

We were sitting off the back of the boat savoring the sunset and waiting for a glimpse of the green flash when I spotted Tuna's jumping behind the boat. I was tempted to grab a fishing line but this time decided to just enjoy the view. Then as the Tuna swam away a large Turtle surfaced behind the steps and just said hello...The kids got a kick out of him as he was pretty big. I was thinking at that moment how I wish I could see a whale. They are know to travel very close to the shores here and would love to see one up close. About 5 minutes later Paul says, "Look Michele, a Whale" There it was just blowing water out of this blow hole and swimming along just behind us. It came up about 5 times and the last one was a beautiful tail shot.

We are planning on weathering a heavy front that is pushing through here in a couple of days. Winds steady at 35 knots is expected for two days. We are out in the ocean but the direction of the wind is from the opposite side of the atoll so we hope that the reef in front will keep us comfortable. The only thing would be if the swell would come around but that usually doesn't bother us. We are six sail boats strong holding together planning all kinds of daily events here and will weather it together. We really don't have an option as the nearest safe port is 4 days away and from what we heard there are no moorings available in the deep water anchorage. In the mean time, before the wind, we are going to have no wind which makes for spectacular diving, snorkeling and land/dingy exploring. We will really get a chance to scope out this place without rushing.

Hope all is well with you all at home. Keep in touch.

8/30/08

Hotel California.....

Seems like we checked into Palmerston Atoll but we can't check out....

The weather that has been predicted is now coming in full force. We are not in a place that makes us warm and fuzzy but luckily we are not the only boat here. We are seven strong and we are holding a night watch during the strongest part of the high pressure. We are expecting winds in the 35 to 40 knot range for about 4 days. Palmerston would have been nice for three days but we are feeling our stay is going to be LOOOOONNNNNGGGGG! Tonight a mommy and baby whale came eerily close to the boat. We started to think she might get stuck in our mooring lines....

Speaking of mooring lines.... What they have here is coral that surrounds the island. Not the best anchoring condition so some of the locals decided to make 7 mooring balls. That's great but they are just chain wrapped around the coral. How good is that? Well most of us cruisers have been diving on the coral heads and adding more line, chain and tweaking the system. Paul is happy cause we are on quite a big piece and we now have 3 lines to it. The other night one boat here did run up on the reef. The line, at the mooring ball, snapped. YIKES! Luckily they were able to pull up their keel to get off the reef.

We are all having a good laugh out here and the spirits are high. Two of the boats here are real characters which helps and Paul and I can't help but make jokes ourselves. We are rocking and rolling quite a bit right now but better than being out in the 20 to 30 foot waves they are projecting. Looks like we are stuck in this not so ideal spot for a little while. When it blows over we are heading straight for Vava'u, Kingdom of Tonga.

Tonga Bound...... A Whale tale.

We should be arriving by afternoon time (one day ahead of you) in the Kingdom of Tonga. Yep, we are now offically one full day ahead of you. Does that mean I am also one day older than I should be? When do I celebrate my birthday? The last two days have been wonderful compared to the past week and a half. The seas are still about 15+ feet but riding downwind is a breeze. There are times when Paul and I feel like we might have to run inside and close the door so we won't get flooded out but we never do. It's quite an amazing site to see this massive swell coming at us from behind and then since we have wing on wing with the gib and ginniker our speed is up and we surf them. So much fun.

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VaVa'u weekly race on DaMojo - 2nd place.            Local market                                              Mahi Mahi for dinner

Sept 26, 2008

I have been LAAZZZZZYYYYYY and just sitting back reading all day (The Poison Wood bible). I know it's driving Paul nuts cause he can't just sit around but there really isn't anything to do. The weather, since we got here, has been cold, rainy, windy and cloudy.

We are disappointed but lucky for us we are not on a charter here paying loads of money like a bunch of other "Moorings Charters" boats out here. I do feel really bad for them. They fly all the way from Sweden to sail Tonga and enjoy sun, whales and water but get the mentioned crap above.... We have been holed up here, at anchorage number 16, for almost a week. They have around 35 good anchorages but the names are so hard that moorings decided to number them years ago and it just stuck. It does tick some purist off but hey you try to pronounce Euakafa Eueiki. What zee heck!!!!!

Tonight is Pizza night. Did I mention to any of you how much the food stinks here. We are limited in selection and what they do have (chicken legs, Beef Ribs, and some weird cut of lamb) has been refrozen about 10 times and taste like game meat. It's pretty scary. I am thinking about hunting my own pig and becoming a butcher..there are more pigs than people on the island but they don't even have pork in the stores...go figure!

I HAVE BEEN MAKING IT UP WITH INCREDIBLE DESERTS> For example: Crepes for dinner last night with Nutella, bananas and strawberry jam along with the last cherished bottle of maple syrup from dad and a small glass of Port wine! But, what I failed to mention is that I tried to pressure cook the one of the three choices of meat, Beef ribs; Even drenched in BBQ sauce and trimmed of excess fat it was just gross. I couldn't even stand the smell so I ate Black beans and rice. For someone, like me, who loves to cook, this is just torture! I CAN'T wait till New Zealand and a decent grocery store....I am not asking for much!

October 1, 2008

We were due for a good day over here! We endured a system of rain and wind over us right at dinner time with wind clocking into the 50 knot range. We have one report on a boat that they saw 60 but who really knows. It was a wicked storm. We have already been holed up on the boat from icky weather so this just topped it. This is supposed to be the end of the crap weather for at least two days and then we have to tuck in for another low pressure coming in three days....

Yesterday, we decided since there was no wind and settled seas that we would attempt an out island that has a matrix of reef around it that you have to find your way in. It was exciting to get there, in and jump in the water. It has been the first time we all went snorkeling in Tonga. The sun is out, the birds are singing and the whales are jumping. This island is also bringing us 15 miles closer to the middle group of islands Ha'apai(sounds like Ha'pie) where we plan to head for the next day. This is the first time, in a long time that we have done a passage under no wind and seas. It reminded me of the many passages to Bimini (and it's the same distance) but, here are the differences.... First off, this is whale breading ground. In the first four hours of the trip we saw 10 whales (breaching, finning, laying, and spouting). Then the second half we must have gotten in the middle of a breading area and we had several large male whales fighting each other off the female and as we looked around us there were whale spouts everywhere and a few slapping their tails and breaching. We shut off the engines and let them do there thing but as we were sitting up front watching the show one decided to scare the shit out of us...he popped up right next to us and spouted. It is so loud and these babies are just huge. The cute thing is watching the little babies mimic their moms and breach. One actually swam under the boat at around 25 feet and we measured it using the boat and rounded off at about 40 feet long and about 12 feet wide. We got a shot of the whale tail and they all were Fin whales (the fastest whale in the ocean). AMAZING! All in all, I think we spotted about 50 whales. Then, to top it off, we caught 4

10 lb Rainbow Runners and landed two on the boat and then ended the day with two 25 lb Mahi Mahi's. We settled in for the night in the Ha'apai islands and enjoyed a great rainbow runner on the grill. Like I said, we were due for a day like this. Since the storm we endured in Palmerston many weeks ago, the weather has been awful. It has been too long and not at all expected. But, now we have to get prepared for the next low pressure coming....UGH!

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         Paul's rainbow runner                                        Breachin'                           Sleepin'....watch out!!  Paul, go right!

October 4, 2008

The coolest thing happened to us at the first anchorage here. We were all on deck doing chores when a baby whale came breaching towards us. We didn't see momma until she decided to pop up right next to us (not even a foot from the boat) and stayed there while the baby breached all the way around us. They were in 50 feet of water and we were not even two football fields away from land. I got an incredible picture of the kids up front watching and the baby coming up out of the water. PRICELESS! We still can't believe it and we lived it. The crazy thing is the mom just floated next to the boat (parallel) for about a minute and just spouted. Can't wait to send you the picture.

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October 11, 2008

It has been a quiet week with a break in the wind since yesterday. We have decided to high tail it to a desirable location that is the best in Tonga but can only be visited in settled weather. It is just beautiful and breathtaking here. The view of the little island and all different color blues is what we need after being blown for the past week. We were invited to lunch at a locals house a couple days ago and enjoyed a traditional Tongan feast. We got there in a little rickety shack with banana leaves on the table without any plates or utensils. They dumped out huge baked yams, and something else similar to a potato. Then they brought out taro leaves in a lamb broth and something wrapped up in a banana leaf. As we unwrapped, the frightening substance appeared. It's called something Kakaiti and it looks like "kaka" Its brown and green in the not so desirable shades and was even frightening for my culinary pallet. Paul dug in and surprised me and said it was good. It's taro leaves with flour and baked over night in coconut milk. The coconut milk gets kinda brownish and the large curdled substance was greenish. I tasted it and it was okay but not something I would try and replicate. Merric told us that he didn't want to experience another Tongan lunch, thank you very much. Not even two days later Merric and I are sick with a 24 hour bug and paying the price. We should be in Tongatapu, which is the final destination for Tonga before our big departure for New Zealand. We will keep you posted on our weather for departure.

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Before the meal....                                                    It looks decent enough....                           "KaKa" Wow, need I say more.....

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