- Society Islands
- Aitutaki, Cook Islands
- Palmerston, Cook Islands
- Kingdom
of Tonga
Tahiti onward to Bora Bora...
We have finally left the island of Moorea. We ended up spending a
week more than we would have like but we didn't complain much since
it was so much fun. We were about 20 boats in this anchorage where
10 boats had kids ages ranging from 8 to 17! Reminded me of my
youth, ahhh the wonderful memories!!! Our passage was a weather
window of just one night. It looks like 11 boats took advantage of
this weather window, cause of the 5 I knew that were leaving,
another bunch pulled out at the same time as us. NO one wants to
have to use fuel since it's about 7 bucks a gallon.

Before we left we wanted to load the boat up with fresh fruits so
I went to the house that, sometimes, has a table with fruit out in
front. It was early, 8am, and all was quite but I was able to get
someone's attention inside. They knew I was coming for a stalk of
bananas cause I came by the afternoon before to place my order. The
mom came out holding a very large stalk of bananas and I became a
bit nervous how much this was going to cost me. Considering that
everything here is about 5x's as expensive than home!!! I started to
ask her how much and she asked me if I had kids on my boat. I said
yes, I have two and this is my daughter Seanna with me. Seanna
always has to go with us on errands!!!! Then she said, "I would like
to give you these bananas". I was shocked! I wanted to make sure
there was nothing lost in translation and asked again, "how much"?
She said she wanted no money. Then she floored me even more when she
carried this big stalk to my dingy and said wait here. She came back
with a large basket full of fruit. I don't know the names of them
but one was their local apple, which look purple and green outside
and the size of an apple, and Paul said it taste like a large
concord grape on the inside. Then she gave me a few long green pods
that she said the kids would love and she was right. The kids open
the pod and take out the white cover seeds and eat the white. I took
pictures of it. Then she gave me some ripe bananas for now, 6 papaya
and two other fruit (I had different names for this one fruit but
it's green with little soft spikes on it used for drinks). When I
came home to tell Paul that I didn't pay a dime for this he couldn't
believe it. I did leave the lady some gifts...I couldn't just leave
her empty handed. I gave her wine, shoes and lipsticks. I think this
made her happy.


We had a Catana raft up last night. We met up with our friends on
Da Mojo and Ocealys who each have two kids plus some guest on board.
At around 5 pm we all rafted up and had a "pot luck" dinner. It was
a bunch of fun. Total of 8 kids all the same age. I haven't laughed
so much in a long time! Yesterday, we went surfing with Da Mojo
(gosh, I love this family) and David, the dad, took Merric surfing
on his long board. It was the coolest thing to see Merric in front
surfing a wave. He also did some great boogie boarding. He already
has incredible balance jumping on the surf board so now I know what
to get him for X-mas!!!! I, on the other hand, paddled my Kayak to
the surf spot and ate it on the first wave and lost my spare
sunglasses, haha. I have been Kayaking for over an hour a day or
swimming. Getting back on track...now if I could just quit the
drinking every night! Mom, you would be upset with me...I didn't put
sun block on that well yesterday and I am paying the price!
OUCH.

Yep, we have found Nemo in Huahine, Society islands. Just laying
back enjoying life. Seanna says she is happy to be 4 but can't wait
till she is 17. I told her she will get there one day! Don' know why
she picked that age??? I preferred 23 myself.
We are on our way to Tahaa tomorrow and should be in
Bora Bora by the 2nd or 3rd to pick up Alex and Kristin. We are
REALLY getting syked up for that! Keep getting incredible reports on
the beauty of that place. We also got word that if I thought Tahiti
was expensive that Bora Bora will take my breath away. So, I stocked
up here. Good think Alex and Kristin are staying on the boat and I
love to cook, eh!
Thank you for all the cute emails to Seanna on her birthday. She
really loved hearing them and was so excited to get them, she kept
saying "Awwww". She is deeply touched by family. We always have to
tell stories about family or I use threats that Pierre will come
down on them if they don't eat their dinner. Merric loves that! He
wants to be just like Pierre...big and strong. So, sometimes they
ask me if Uncle Pierre eats certain foods and it's easy to say yes.
All of you are always in our thoughts and daily conversations.
Speaking of being attached to family. Seanna has a bathing suit that
has seen much better days and the straps lost their elastic and the
butt is sagging but since grandma gave it to her she never wants to
give it away. She told me that, "I don't want you giving this to any
Indians..I love it cause Grand mama gave it to me, okay mommy". I
said, "Okay" We always gave away our old clothes to the Kuna Indians
in the San Blas incase you were wondering why she said
that...haha.
**********
We spent a magical two final weeks in the French Polynesian
islands at Bora Bora. Alex and Kristen came to visit for 10 days and
we had a blast. The weather was just perfect. The week before they
came we had strong winds and it was hard to do anything with the
boat so just a few days before they came I made a wish and threw a
few coins in the water. The next day Paul got the report that the
weather was going to be picture perfect the day after they arrive.
It's one of those places where it's not hard to entertain
guest...the island just does it's magic. The waters of Bora Bora are
different shades of blue...it's not rare to be cruising on the dingy
or big boat and see the wild life just below you. Although
everything in Bora Bora is very expensive we didn't feel the pinch
since I was stocked and being on the boat was better than any
restaurant. You should have seen Alex and Kristen whippin out the
home made tortillas for Fajita night. Coco coladas, mojitos,
margaritas, tahiti beer, wine and shots toasted the sunset every
night. It was very hard for me to let them go!
We are now underway to the Cook Islands and are on day two of a
three to four night passage. We have already skipped two islands
because the weather isn't permitting us to get into the cut and we
don't want to take the chance. As we passed the first island I
spotted a whale doing a show. The humpback whale jumped up a few
times then did the classic back flop. It was just beautiful. At the
same time my line went out and had a Mahi on but just as I got it
close to the boat it got off....
Aitutaki, Cook Islands
We made it(Aitutaki, Cook islands) into the Extremely narrow
snakelike cut.... into a VERY small anchorage with three other cats
and one small mono haul. It is full of coral heads everywhere and
doesn't leave for any mistakes. You have to be able to turn on a
dime. We hit the cut at high outgoing tide. Paul was full steam
ahead and we barley moved. Most of the cats here anchored off the
cut for two days before they were brave enough to come in. We saw
them in here so we just progressed. We went to 6 feet (at full high
tide) at the 1/2 way mark into the cut and didn't go above 10. We
have two anchors out since there is NO swing space but we are not
complaining. Everyone here was ready to lend a helping hand to get
us in and anchored. It is just great! The view is spectacular beyond
the rusty harbor. The lagoon is very shallow so it dries at low tide
and so far the people we have met have just charmed us. They wave at
us like they know us and we've been friends for years. The color of
the water here reminds us of the Bahamas (every shade of blue) and
there are tons of islands in the shallow lagoon, that we can reach
with the dingy, to go visit. We plan to do some kayaking and
snorkeling tomorrow. We had lunch at the wharf bar and had a full
meal with beers for $32 NZ dollars. We are back to normal prices,
yeah! I don't plan on cooking much here, hahahaah. After the huge $$
inflation we saw in the French Polynesian we forgot that there are
places out here that are "affordable".... I am really happy we
stopped.

8/23/08
Still just relaxing here in Aitutaki, Cook Islands. Did you know
that this is where they filmed Survivor, Cook Islands. It's not rare
to see a local with a Survivor hat or shirt on here :). They said
that they filmed for 6 months and hired everyone on the island. They
were a class act! Nice to know they were not taken advantage of
cause the people here wear their shirts on their sleeves around
here. The beaches and view here are incredible and I can see why
they choose this place.
On the second or third day, we tried our hand at fishing but were
not that successful. We caught one medium sized snapper and Paul
didn't feel like cleaning it so when we saw a local couple coming
back into port we went up to them to say hello and asked if they got
anything? They didn't get much so Paul gave them our fish. Well,
that ONE LITTLE show of generosity has then, over the past few days,
landed us as the garden of Eden. Mii (Me'E) and Richard work by
harvesting sea grapes, which is compared to caviar and sells to the
local market, it then gets flown over to the other larger islands
near by. We have had our share of sea grapes!! Which look like a
small bunch of green grapes about the size of your thumb. They are
very salty.... They sell it for $10 a pound. You can serve it as a
salad but we really liked it on a cracker with cheese. Mii and
Richard stop over every day and drop off grape fruit, passion fruit,
bananas, guava, paw-paws (papaya), lemon, sour oranges, sea grapes,
coconuts and star fruit. We told them we were leaving tomorrow and
then they brought over more of the above but in MUCH larger
quantities. Our water line is disappearing...haha. Shoot, I made a
meat sauce and I put some papaya in it and you know what...it was
awesome. I also made a papaya, banana and coconut cake that was out
of this world (I used aunt Johanne's mango bread recipe and
subsituted the mango for papaya...this time I had so much ripe
banana I put one in too.... please pass that on to her and tell her
I think about her every time I take out the recipe). Don't know what
we are going to do with the rest since I have already donated it to
other cruisers that have come by.
We are going to stat making our way to Palmerston Atoll and we
have been given several boxes, stalks of bananas and other goodies
to bring to them. There is quite the story behind the island and the
people who live there. Try to google it and see if anything comes
up. It's about an Englishman who worked on a ship back in the late
1800's who visited the atoll. He later went back with 4 wives and
set up camp at each N, E, S and W motu and had a bunch of kids. He
taught them about in-breading and forbade it and that kept them
healthy and strong. They all have the same last name Marsters.
Apparently, when a boat arrives a family will come out to greet you.
The first family to great you becomes the "host family" and they
take care of you from morning till night with parties, dinners and
activities. They don't have much but love to have people come visit.
I have cleaned out my lockers and have a huge bag of goodies myself
to leave them.
8/27/08
Sitting here with about 8 other boats
enjoying Palmerston atoll. On our way here we caught more than our
share of fresh Mahi so we opted to donate a large ziplock bag and
set up a fish/pot luck party on the beach with our host Edward and
his wife Shirley and get all the cruisers together. Had a nice time
dodging rain showers and having a BBQ.

Imagine this, here I am in the middle of the pacific ocean, 1000
miles away from civilization and the Shirley was asking me if
Angelina Jolie and Brad Pit had their babies yet! There are only 12
adults on the island and 25 children. It is a well structured island
with the adults in all levels (secretary, customs, immigrations,
inspectors, one police officer and teacher). The school is really
nice and it set up with curriculum from New Zealand. The children
here are just charmers and love to talk to the cruisers.
I am a little tipsy from a few rum drinks tonight so I will write
you later....

Homemade bbq with
coconuts and palm leaves
Layer with more leaves and cook for 20
mins.
Enjoy!
Dusk.... just as the sun it setting, we are anchored off the
atoll since we cannot access it. That means we are literally
anchored in the ocean on a shelf that drops dramatically. We have
had a wonderful day on the island of Palmerston with Edward and his
family along with all the other funny cruisers out here. We are
happy to be back to the boat as it was a hot day with no wind this
afternoon. A big change from the crap we were in this
morning...rain, wind reversals and currents. In side the atoll has
some of the coolest coral formations to snorkel and the water is
extremely clear.
Well, back to where I started....
We were sitting off the back of the boat savoring the sunset and
waiting for a glimpse of the green flash when I spotted Tuna's
jumping behind the boat. I was tempted to grab a fishing line but
this time decided to just enjoy the view. Then as the Tuna swam away
a large Turtle surfaced behind the steps and just said hello...The
kids got a kick out of him as he was pretty big. I was thinking at
that moment how I wish I could see a whale. They are know to travel
very close to the shores here and would love to see one up close.
About 5 minutes later Paul says, "Look Michele, a Whale" There it
was just blowing water out of this blow hole and swimming along just
behind us. It came up about 5 times and the last one was a beautiful
tail shot.
We are planning on weathering a heavy front that is pushing
through here in a couple of days. Winds steady at 35 knots is
expected for two days. We are out in the ocean but the direction of
the wind is from the opposite side of the atoll so we hope that the
reef in front will keep us comfortable. The only thing would be if
the swell would come around but that usually doesn't bother us. We
are six sail boats strong holding together planning all kinds of
daily events here and will weather it together. We really don't have
an option as the nearest safe port is 4 days away and from what we
heard there are no moorings available in the deep water anchorage.
In the mean time, before the wind, we are going to have no wind
which makes for spectacular diving, snorkeling and land/dingy
exploring. We will really get a chance to scope out this place
without rushing.
Hope all is well with you all at home. Keep in touch.