1.   Passage to Marquesas emails

June 29, 2008

Marlin Way

We are on our way to Tahiti.  It's a 2 night/3 day passage going down wind.  Really can't complain about that.  The temp is cool enough that Paul and I have long sleave shirts and pants on.  That is one thing I failed to mention is the incredible temperature around here.  At night we are usually dressed and with sheets on.  I sometimes have to close my window!!!!  We have meet a few new cruisers from France and England.  All of us have caught huge Marlins on our lines.  We almost lost everything today but when it jumped we lost it.  There is no way we would have been able to get that monster in.  The French couple got two Marlin and everything (lure and line).  So, we have decided to name this section Marlin way.  We should be in Tahiti tomorrow early morning.  That would be 6 hours later for you guys on the East coast.  So, while you are digesting your lunch, we will just be watching the sun rise and coming into port.  We were going to opt out of Tahiti since it's just a large industrial port and we really didn't need anything but then we got wonderful news that Alex and Kristin will be coming to visit in Bora Bora and now I want to get some good stuff!!!!!  YEAH! 

We have just learned that a friend of ours that we didn't think to bump into again is here in Papeete, Tahiti.  Not sure if you remember I mentioned the Australian family, Da Mojo, on the 47 ft Catana that we met in Bocas Del Toro, Panama...  We also heard they were cruising with another family from the US with kids the same age as ours and have the same exact boat...imagine that!  Hope to meet them for the kids sake.  They love to make new friends.

Hope all is going well with you...  Hey, by the way, what's in the news???  Who is the Democrat candidate?  It's MaCain on the republican side, right?  Anything else I should know?  Been so far away from the news...

June 25, 2008

The island of Tahanea, Tuamotu

This island has gotten more Wow's out of us than any other.  We arrived here about four nights ago and we spent the first three near the passe (entrance) of the atoll.  The wind was almost non existent which made the water like glass.  This is the clearest water I have ever seen.  We opted not to snorkel around here since we have had a heavy shark presence!!!!  But, we did go fishing in the passe.  We started in about 80 foot of water and could see our bait go all the way to the bottom and we could see the fish hitting the bait.   The fish here are huge and plentiful considering that there is about 30 boats that visit every year and a small group of copra growers that come for the short season.  Every time we caught a fish (which was every drop) we had to change locations since the reef sharks started to group in the area.  The second time we moved I spotted a big shark near the surface and almost choked...It was a VERY LARGE Tiger shark.  He was gracefully moving along as we circled him.  We were all, happily, enjoying him from the view of our dingy!  As we got in front of the passe (entrance) the tide was slowly taking us out and we caught grouper...after snapper...after grouper.  We even spotted two big tunas in 80 foot of water but they are the Dogtooth tuna.  A species that are usually found in passes, and deep lagoons.  They, unfortunately, didn't hit our baits.  But, I have to say, I couldn't imagine having one of those on my spinning rod trying to land it on the dingy! 

The winds kicked up dramatically the night before last and our glassy water and calm anchorage when to a very bumpy one.  The wind was around 20 knots from the  SE coming from the opposite side of the atoll so we had a good wind chop.  We heard from another boat that there was some beautiful beaches on the SE end of the atoll so by morning we were up and at it.  5 miles and 10 reef patches later we had beautiful beaches, calm water to anchor and no sharks!  We played on the beaches and couldn't get our selves to leave.  Every turn of the motu was something different.  One side was bright blue water with beaches while the other side was exposed reef with the tide water rushing in and felt like you were walking on the moon.  The effect was incredible.  Paul and I saw the endangered Tuamotu sandpiper.  Apparently, there are only about 100 left in existence and are able to live here since there are no rats on the islands.  We love it here so much that we are thinking about passing on visiting Tahiti and spending more time here but our plans change constantly so I will keep you posted. 

June 22, 2008

4 Black tip Salut

We arrived in Tahanea, Tuamotu this afternoon at high sun and were welcomed by incredible beauty.  The water is clear and bright blue.  We were all excited to reach this untouched piece of paradise.  No one lives here!!!!  I take that back, Sharks live here!  While I was dropping anchor in front I heard the yells from the kids, "Sharks".  Not one, Not two, NOT THREE but 4 black tip sharks wanted to stop in an say welcome to their piece of the reef.  It was so much fun to watch them swim around the boat and grab some great pictures.  I dipped my hand into the water with the camera but got a bit freaked out when they started coming towards my hand in different directions.  I got a couple good pictures and video.  We got the kayak, careful not to tip over, and headed to the beach.  The Hermit crabs here are the size of your hand.  We are in search for nice, yummy, coconut crabs to go with dinner but not tonight.  Hamburgers are on the menu.  Need a break from all the seafood. 

June 21, 2008

We are on the move again....

We have finally heaved our anchor that was tangled in a web of rocks below and set out to a new home.  Leaving was just as nerve racking as it was coming in.  The sun was in my face and I couldn't read the water.  There are reefs everywhere inside the atoll and you have to come into the pass at a certain direction.  Hitting ground is not a option around here or in my book!  When we got to the pass the water was rushing out of the atoll.  This is the only cut in the whole circular reef.  Water rushes in and out at a speed of 8 knots...yes, I said 8.  That is about how fast our boat goes under power!  We did just fine and I was ready to throw in a line just as we cleared and drink a beer.  Paul did mention something like sails first and it's only 8 am and I said, "Oh, yeah". 

We will be underway for about 28 hours, downwind.  Our current wind is about 10 knots so we are motor sailing to get in at a decent hour.  We need to time the tides in the atolls to be able to get in or out (as mentioned above).

Yesterday, we went fishing and Paul caught a very large Camouflage grouper to add to our collection in the bucket.  Maybe because it was a full moon but the sharks were out!  First, Seanna spotted a big black tip circling the dingy when we were getting in and then the first grouper we pulled in got eaten by a shark and I had a fish on at the same time so I was really pulling fast to get my big snapper in.  We also saw tons of Sharks prowling the shallows of the reefs.  Pierre, I wish you were here!!!!!  You would just love the friggen fishing around here.  I made a cornmeal crusted grouper for lunch yesterday that was to die for...  Today we caught a Tuna and I cooked that up for dinner.  Paul put me on fish probation in the kitchen...I guess fish everyday for lunch is okay but throwing it in for dinner was tops for him.  Seanna and Paul were both wishing for my traditional Cheeseburger underway.  I promised them both fresh baked rolls with juicy cheeseburgers for dinner tomorrow night.  The Tuna was darn good tonight so Paul didn't complain to much.  I made a Thai peanut sauce for the noodles and then I cut the tuna in squares added sesame oil and hoisen and threw them in a very hot pan for a few seconds.  The fish topped the noodles and put the sauce over the top.  I was going to add green peppers and chopped cabbage but they were both growing hair in the fridge so I had to make it simple.  I am down to my last carrot then all we have is canned.  Rough life, eh! 

June 17, 2008

Remora Bay

My favorite part of traveling like this is all the different cultures we have come across.  Having children and visiting less traveled spots have also given us a much warmer welcome.  Just yesterday, a local name Gilles, that we befriended here on the island of Rarioa, came to visit with his 2 friends on their unique style Kayaks (total atoll population about 75).  It is long and sleek with a little pontoon off the side for stability.  He jumped out of it and made me race the others.  I had such a blast.  He is about my age and both arms are covered with the local style tattoos.  He is into fitness and eating what comes from the land and the ocean...which means, fish, crab and coconuts.  Two days ago another local caught wind that I had a stalk of bananas on the boat and came over to present me with a beautiful black pearl about the size of a nickel.  All he wanted was 8 bananas!!!!!  Nuts!!!  He invited us to go visit his other island here on the atoll to go spear fishing and hunting for big coconut crabs.  Unfortunately, it was pouring rain and we had to pass but he came back after and gave us a huge surge grouper, two spotted unicorn fish and three large coconut crabs.  He free dives up to about 75 feet for the groupers and says he has to get the fish out quick before the sharks see him (he already lost 3 spear guns to the sharks in the past and doesn't want to lose anymore).  Even after all that he still gives some fish to us....they are so giving.  The fish here are much different than I am used to.  It's a lot of fun to go snorkeling to see the different species they have but the darn sharks still spook me.  We saw three sharks in a 20 minute snorkel off a reef right by the boat.  Makes you think what else it out there.

Today, we went and did some fishing on the dingy and caught two nice Ambon snappers and two camouflage groupers.  I guess you can guess what we had for lunch!  We will leave here when the wind blows us and plan to head to Tahanea, Tuamotu.  It is about 180 miles from here.  It is an uninhabited atoll that we heard was just spectacular.  Gilles jokes with us about the size of the coconut crabs that we will get there...he says it's the grandpa's.  Since no one lives on this atoll he said just be ready for really big fish and crabs.  YUM! 

The view here is just picture perfect.  We are in a lagoon about 10 miles long and 5 miles wide.  It is completely surrounded by a reef and has some patches of land with palm trees.  We are anchored in between two reefs in the lagoon and have a beach and palms just behind where the sun sets.  Every picture I take still make me sigh!  There are a about 40 atolls in the Tuamotu and not all have a pass to get into them and not even half are populated.  You are really on your own out here!  This atoll just started a Pearl farm 9 years ago and before that they never had a plane land on the island.  We have been here for a week and have not seen another boat.  Our friends, BeBe, went to an atoll that was an easier passage and easier to get into but they have not had the same experience we have.  Sometime you really must "pay your dues" to experience something incredible. 

P.S.  We nicknamed this place remora bay since we are loaded with Remoras under the boat...Where there are remoras there are sharks....  For those of you who asked me what a remora is...It's a shark sucker.  They are the fish that attach themselves to sharks.

June 13, 2008

Kura Ora

I guess I will be learning a new way to say hello in every set of islands we go to.  We finally made it to our destination and happy to be just relaxing.

Speaking French has been a big advantage to us really enjoying the people and the island.  Everyone speaks French and their local language.  Yesterday we went for a tour of the Pearl farm here.  The S. Pacific are known for the most expensive black pearls.  We watched the whole operation and was quite impressed.  I can now see why they are expensive.  I am not a huge pearl lover so it's not a must have for me but a local man who harvest his own gave me a couple as a gift.  It was really nice.  They are very giving people and don't ask for much but love to receive.  Funny thing is I traded for a stalk of bananas that were too big for just us and Paul said, "what are we going to do with all of those" when we were still in the Marquesas.  The locals here came up to the boat and you can see them eyeing them with watering mouths so I have been passing them out.  They are soooo excited.  They live off fish, coconuts, rice, flour for bread and that is all.  Not much variety but them seem content with that.  They can't grow much but cucumbers and melons since it's just sand and rock.  Speaking of cucumbers...we have never seen so many sea cucumbers in one place.  One the beach there are hundreds of them and Paul saw the biggest one he has ever seen (about 4 feet long and 1 foot thick). 

Paul has nicknamed this section of the atoll "Remora bay" because we are swarmed with Remoras.  My motto is...where there are remoras there are sharks, yikes.  The local here name Gilles told me the are used to humans on this side of the atoll but on the unpopulated end they are more curious.  They like to come up to you and bump you...OH great!!!  Thanks for the info...Now I AM NOT JUMPIN IN!!!!!!  AUUUGGGHHHHH.  Paul went snorkeling yesterday and right when he got into the water he popped back up and said, "Black tip".  I will really have to work against my fear cause the reef and tropical fish look really nice from up top. 

The wind has calmed down and we plan on getting some much deserved R&R after that rough passage.

June 11, 2008

Thank you all so much for the beautiful birthday wishes.  My birthday isn't one for the memory books, though!  It has been a rough and we are taking a beating out here.  It is a 350 mile passage to this set of islands.  To get to the nice ones that are not as populated you need to take a harder beat into the wind and waves.  We decided to go for it.  We have been double reefed on the main and triple reefed on the gib.  Even with that little sail out we can go up to 8 knots.  Tonight the wind has been steady at 28 to 30 but it is supposed to settle...  It did last night and we thought we would have a nice rest of our passage but that was just wishful thinking.  The kids have been real troopers.  We are looking forward to seeing land this morning.  The kids had a celebration...Yeah, one more sleep and we get to the beach.  I just look around and think of how much I need to clean up.  The window in the guest room was windward and just found out it was leaking.  The bed is saturated with salt water....Gee, I love sailing.  hehe. 

A congrats to you Nataly on your graduation.  I am so happy for you.  You can come celebrate your graduation out here in Tahiti!!! :). 

I will write you more when I get there. 

P.S. In case any of you want to google where we are going it's an island called Raroia.  You will probably get something back also on Kon Tiki.  The raft that a swedish man named Thor Heyerdahl sailed from Peru back in the 40's to prove migration.  He ran aground here and it was the end of his trip.  I have the book somewhere....I will try and find it and read it.

June 8, 2008

Ka O ha,

How many languages can you say hello????  Ka O'ha, I am spelling it the way it sounds.  We spent the past three nights on Oa Pou, Marquesas.  The passage to here was downwind with very steep waves about 8 to 10 feet.  We sailed very comfortably until we rounded the south side of the island then we had some strong wind gust from the mountains and then as we rounded the point to our anchorage we were on the nose with steep waves (luckily, it only lasted about 10 minutes).  The anchorage looked opened and exposed but as we rounded the bend we didn't care what the conditions were...the view was incredible.  Hard to describe but it is large mountains with large "tiki's" sticking up to the clouds.  They are very tall and steep points that shoot out of the mountain reaching up into points that touch the clouds and sometimes hidden by them.  We heard there were a few rock climbers that came out one year and reached the top on the steepest one.  Not the kind of thrill I am willing to look for but amazed that someone can.  Well, like I mentioned earlier, the anchorage was a bit rolly so we planned on spending our day on land and "scope it out".  Not even 2 minutes down the road and a local by the name of Holler-pronounced Ho'LEr (real name Hokaupoko) He is 28 and both arms are full on local tattoos and looks like a surfer.  He invites us to his home and we accept.  We climbed the mountain to his flat that over looks the bay.  Most locals here have a kitchen/dining area outside the house.  We sat and chit chatted about how beautiful the view was and other things when he just started cooking.  So, he's a cute surfer looking guy and he likes to cook, wow!  He even showed us his "Herb" garden and used some for lunch.  We got to his house at 10am and we didn't get back to the boat till 8pm.  We had such a great time. 

Maybe the boys had to much "Herb and beer" cause they made plans to go fishing the next morning at 6am.  Did I say it was windy and rough.  Oh well, I am staying on the boat with the kids so it's up to them.  We will be up at Holler's house again today. 

We are now underway to the Tuamotus islands about 300+ miles south of the Marquesas and it's a bit rough.  We are trying to get to there during daylight hours so we are only doing 6 knots.  As I was typing this last line a 40 knot gust of wind in front of a squall hit us.  Good thing we were already reefed in the main and had about handkerchief of gib out.  Sounds like this is a normal occurrence out here but it's a first for us.  I am happy we were prepared. 

June 1, 2008

You are all on my mind today and Grandma is in my heart.  I hope that everyone was able to say goodbye in their own way.  Today, the kids and I looked at pictures of Grandma and talked about her. 

We are still at Manta Bay (so we have named it) but it's actually something completely different.  Every morning the mantas are out if full force.  Today I swam with two bigger ones.  I tried to bring my camera but they were kinds shy today and it was murky.  We were only going to stay here two nights but can't get ourselves to lift the anchor.  Today we went out bottom fishing with the dingy and caught an 2 nice Peacock Groupers, 2 Red snappers, 1 Humpback snapper, and 1 yellow lip Emperor all in the matter of 1 hour.  And the fish were not small, my wrist hurts from pulling the rod up!!!  It was fun!  When we go fishing we always drift out since the wind is pretty strong lately.  On every drift, we caught a fish or two and then a big manta would swim by.  I asked Paul to pinch me to make sure I wasn't dreaming.  We are getting the kids back on a routine and discipline.  We have slacked in the past two months.  We have started school and will start Monday and do the week.  Merric is starting to buck a bit in school now and looses interest but everyday it's 10 minutes longer.  Seanna is a bit slow on the letters but blows Merric away in Math.  Paul was shocked today when I had him do a drill with the kids.  Seanna kept blurting out the correct answers while Merric was whining.  But, then when it comes to letter and reading Merric has always been stronger.  I will work on their strengths and weaknesses to make them great!  I have to learn not to get frustrated and just move on or stop for a break and then start with something else.  Merric has been stuttering like crazy and we are trying to get him to slow down.  Genevieve, if you can talk to your speech therapist to see if there are any exercises we can do.  I am doing great!  probably the best I have ever been.  I am really happy that we made the jump.  I was really getting tired of Panama and needed some new excitement.  Every set of islands we are going to are so different.  The Marquesas are high mountains with dramatic views, the tuamotu island are low and surrounded by reefs, then we get to bora bora and Tahiti and it's high mountains again but these are surrounded by reefs that circle the island.  Very cool.  I love being with my family and just us.  We have not even said hello to the boats in the anchorage cause we are all enjoying our time together.  Funny how we all feel the same.  Seanna literally jumped off the dingy by herself today to swim with the mantas and then we couldn't get her back in.  Merric and Paul say a 5 foot black tip shark...good thing it wasn't me but I better start getting used to them cause they are abundant out here.  No spear fishing for Paul!!!! Momma won't allow that!  Unless, I am just above him in the dingy at all times and he bring the fish up ASAP then we move locations.  Can't be to careful. 

I better stop rambling or this email will never get out.

May 30, 2008

We have been really enjoying out stay so far in the Marquesas.  Today was one for the memory books...

We are at a nice little beach with big surf.  Yesterday we took the kayak to the beach and didn't time it right...we ended up taking a nose dive right into the beach and flipped.  The kids thought that was fun!  I just wanted to make sure we didn't get hit by the kayak. We couldn't stop laughing.  Afterwards, Paul went into the bush behind the beach and came back with a few dozen limes, two grapefruits and a nice big coconut.  What a garden of Eden!

I woke up this morning to one big happy family and as I was enjoying my coffee outside I notice a few swirls in the water.  I said, "Paul, look at the fin".  I wasn't sure if it was a shark or a manta.  Of course, I was really hoping for Mantas cause my dream is to swim with them.  So, Paul, being the brave soul that he is got into the kayak and paddled over.  I watched as he carefully tried to snorkel and peek under to see what it was.  I am guessing if it was a big shark he wasn't interested in swimming with it but as he got further away and all of a sudden he jumped I was getting my gear ready.  After waiting for about 10 minutes he came back with a huge smile on his face.  He said there was 5 to 6 Mantas and they were swimming around and coming right for him before turning off.  Oh my god!!!! My dream come true.  He brought us to the place and I jumped in with my babies.  Wow! Wow! they started swimming around us and Seanna had a major death grip on me while Merric was just in awe.  I was speechless.  One of them flipped over and show us his belly just under our feet while most of them would come right for us.  We were right in the middle of the plankton so they would just circle us.  I was too happy to cry!  Just beautiful.  They had about a 6 foot wing span and were dark blackish gray on top and white on the undersides.  They stayed around for a few hours and I could have spent the whole day watching them. 

Just before lunch time I asked Paul if we could go fishing with the dingy and try to catch fish for lunch.  We headed out of the anchorage and saw a few birds circling.  Paul cast out a line with a hook and tuna for bait.  Not even 30 seconds later Paul got a hit and a Mahi Mahi flew out of the water.  WOW!  We started to head back into the anchorage to try and fish for snapper and an even larger Manta came by the dingy.  The wing span on this one was about 10 feet.  I am not making this up guys...I am just as shocked writing this...  We had Poisson Cru and Mahi on the grill for lunch.  Paul loved my Poisson Cru so much we went back out fishing at sunset and caught another large snapper for lunch tomorrow.  What we are catching is called a (or so my book states) Yellow lip Emperor.  If anyone wants to google it for me to see if it's edible before we eat too much of them please do. 

We are trying to decide if we are going to move tomorrow but we are in no rush.  We just got here and stopped moving.

May 27^, 2008

We are on a little island just off Hiva Oa and have been enjoying the beach and getting fresh limes and grapefruits out of the trees.  BeBe is still around and have went over to Fatu Hiva which is just beautiful.  We were boarded today by the customs and they went through a bunch of stuff.  Luckily, they didn't find our rum or we would have lost most of that!!!!! 

May 26, 2008

This is what we sailed 4000 miles for!  We arrived in Fatu Hiva at 7:30 am.  The scene was dramatic, steep, foggy and mystic.  We rounded the corner expecting to see a village but what we saw was more steep volcanic rock.  Three boats were anchored off the village which we couldn't see in the little slit of a valley they lived in.  Once we dropped the dingy and pulled behind a steep rock did we see the village.  Amazing....just like the people.  We quickly made friends with other boats and local families.  We found our best bargaining power came from our beer and rum.  We traded for beautiful Pareos, wood carvings and huge grapefruits.  This place is like the garden of Eden with fruit and flowers everywhere you turn.  The day we arrived they were having a celebration...how lucky were we!  They had the girls dressed up in their grass skirts, heads surrounded by wonderful flowers and the band played with hand made instruments.  They danced and sang for us for about an hour.  Click, Click goes the camera!!!!! 

Last night we had dinner at the family we befriended...Poisson Cru, boiled bananas, breadfruit, coconut milk chicken, rice and a wonderful lemon cake.  Just wonderful people!!!!!  We are on our way to Hiva Oa as I type...will fill you in on that later.

May 24, 2008

When you get this email we will have one more day left before we arrive in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas.  Yes, I am still out here (19 days)!  I know it seems like forever ago I said we were on our way.  The excitement is over but the anticipation has started.  I am ready to get there and stop the movement.  3823 miles done since we left panama and 160 left to go.  We have decided to slow down our pace at a whopping 4 knots so that we will arrive during daylight hours Friday morning.  We are now 4 hours ahead of Florida and when we reach the Marquesas we need to go back  another 1/2 hour.  It's the only place we know of that changes their time zone by half.  The time change is what me feel even further away.

Things here have been slow since we caught the 50 lb tuna.  Just today, Paul was allowed to put the lines in for Mahi or Wahoo and we had two strikes but no takers.  There was a sigh of relief and no one even jumped up to see what it might be.  We made an incredible Coquille St. Jacques with Tuna, clams, escargot, mushrooms and green beans.  It was awesome!!!  We are living large on the high seas and my freezer is still fully stocked.  We were laughing at the table setting cause we never pictured ourselves having lunches like this...white wine in a wine glass sitting on the table with full table setting, outside with the sails up.  It has been paradise and truly has been "pacific".  Oh, I also made an incredible balsamic roasted pepper sauce to go with our grilled Tuna yesterday...Pierre remind me to make you this one day!!!!

Some very sad news came my way yesterday that my grand mother passed away.  On that same day, just as I was sitting down for dinner, an amazing shooting star came down right in front of me.  It had a red tail behind it that lasted a few seconds.  It was still quite early in the night to see them and the moon was full so we didn't expect that.  We called it a sign from her saying goodbye.  I will miss her terribly....

Our current position is 9.51 S  136.06 W for any of you that are tracking us on Google earth.

May 16, 2008

The weirdest thing happened to me while I was in line at Starbucks this morning.  There was this older bearded guy in front of me ordering and picking up his cup of coffee when I looked beyond and the guy behind the counter look sooo familiar.  As the older guy when out the door I stepped up to place my order.  The man behind the counter looked at me with smiling eyes and tilted his head to the side.  Hum, maybe he knows me too.  Feeling the heat between us I started to get a little nervous and decided to break the tension and place my order.  "I'll have a double, grande, skim, caramel macchiato, extra hot, with whipped cream", I said in my sexy just woke up voice.  I never broke eye contact and completed my line but now he was looking at me like I lost my marbles.  Wait, that wasn't the expression I was working for...  He didn't say a word but started to back away from the coffee machine.  I said, "wait, I have money to pay for that".  Again, he had these eyes on me that said a million words and started to grab my favorite coffee cup.  What? What? I started to feel self consious, do I have a booger in my nose, is there sleep in my eyes, What?  The guy behind the counter said, "Wake up Michele, we are 3000 miles in the middle of nowhere."  He then placed a warm cup of strong, bitter coffee in my hand and said, "This is the closest thing to starbucks honey".

Things here are still the same.  We are offically 2/3 done.  We have less than 1000 miles to go.

Oh, and we caught two more Mahi Mahi yesterday….Yeah more fish on the menu. UGH! 

7.17.56S  124.01.60W

May 14, 2008

We are still chasing the sun and in search for the perfect sunset.  We have seen two green flashes but I have yet to have a sunset top the one I loved the most in the Bahamas.  Our days are just routine out here but I am starting to look forward to getting there.  SOOOOOOO much water out here.  We have spotted a two Japanese fishing boats out here with long lines.  Wow, talk about a long way to get tuna for sushi.  I remember watching a documentary on the over fishing of Tuna near their shore lines.  Well, if that is true they are now going over 6000 miles to fish. 

We have about 6 more days out here....  I really can't complain since the wind has been light and the ocean is almost flat.  Yesterday, I cleaned up a few compartments and wiped out a couple cabinets.  We have to keep an eye open for mold on the boat since the humidity gets into our clothes and things and creates a perfect home for mold.  So far, we have been doing great.  We run the air every few days to dry out the boat and sheets. 

I can officially say I am addicted to Sudoku.  Gerry taught me how to do it and everyday I try to complete one or more.  I am now on Medium!!!! 

The kids have been doing great using their imagination, doing school, playing together and watching movies down below.  I haven't given Merric any seasick medicine for the past 10 days.  I gave him one pill since we left the Galapagos and I am not sure if he was really sick or just tired since it was the evening.  I am so happy since that was the main thing keeping me up at night before we left.  I didn't want to have to drug up my son the whole way.  He has actually outdone me in being able to go down below in the bedroom to watch a movie when it's really rough.  AMAZING!  Seanna on the other had is our just pure entertainment and sass!  She runs the show here and that's the truth.  Man, I love my kids. 

Tonight is going to be an easy night with light winds and following seas.  The pacific is just great!  I am so happy we came.  I wrote in my personal journal the other day on how I used to fear the night watches and dread them.  Fear things I can not control like weather, whales, semi submerged containers ect...  But, I had to put it into perspective.  I didn't fear going on 1-95 everyday to Miami for work and there are more chances of a serious car accident than anything happening out here.  It's amazing how things change... I now look forward to them.  The day the last locks opened up at the panama canal was like my rebirth.  I don't want to be plagued with fear, I want to enjoy what I set out to do. 

We are 11 days out with about 6 to 7 more to go.....

6.38.31 S  119.47.29 W

May 10, 2008

We are day 6 in our journey across the pacific.  Every morning it is something new.  The seas are calmer than we have ever expected and we have about 10 knots of wind.  You would think we would be slowing moving at 4 knots or less right!  Well, that is not the case.  We are a steady 6.5 to 7.5.  This ocean has really amazed us.  It might be a long passage but I have never sailed better waters.  Makes the roughness of the Atlantic a dread to return to.  The only way to get calm seas in the Caribbean is to have no wind.  We are averaging 175 miles a day with the top so far being 188.  We are now 1/3 done with our passage and if we continue with the average we have been banking we will have a total passage of 18 days.  But, we know it could be more if the wind dies.  We have plenty of fuel on board since we have only used the engines for about 3 hours total.  We swap sails every once and a while from the ginniker to the jib.  We typically leave the jib out at night in case a squall would pop up since it's easier to get in. 

Yesterday morning we had a spectacular show when a large pod of pilot whales started to follow the boat.  After about 30 minutes they decided to get braver and approached us broad side and about 3 feet away from the boat.  I got some incredible shots of them surfacing.  They ranged in size from 6 feet to about 20 feet, had a distinctive marking of a white patch behind the dorsal fin and rounded heads.  They made me a little nervous when they started to go under the boat.  They seem so big to be able to move out of the way quick enough but they did.  Other than that the day became quite and relaxed.  We started to make our lunches late and have just a light dinner which is easier.  When it gets dark out we can't judge the movement of the boat which makes it tough to cook.  It's worked out really nice. 

This morning I woke up to air conditioning!  That was nice but it's really just to take the humidity out of the rooms cause it's been cool out.  At night I usually wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt. Last night I was even cold wearing that. 

We have been losing our friends BeBe.  They are now about 80 miles away from us.  They are on a more northerly track and yesterday they didn't do good time.  Only about 100 miles! 

We also changed time zones today so now I am 3 hours ahead of time from Canada and Florida. 

Current position is 4.12.091S  106.07.871W

May 7, 2008

We enjoyed one of the most perfect evenings last night.  Every star was out, the milky way as streaking through the sky and shooting stars (total count of 16).  Everyone bragged that their watch was best. 

When we woke up this morning, Paul, our sport fisherman at heart had to put a line in.  Not that we don't already have too much fish (30 pounds of tuna, 10 pounds of Mahi Mahi).  Not even 20 minutes after the line was in we got a strike and a BIG strike.  Paul was giddy!  He said he put on his wahoo lure and we were at a great speed for wahoo at 9 knots.  With the reel on full drag it was still taking off.  It didn't help that we can't slow the boat down!  Finally, he gets an edge to start reeling in the fish.  At first we suspected Shark because of how strong it was but we were incorrect.  As we brought it closer we could see the open mouth and shape of a wahoo.  WAHOO!  And this sucker wasn't little.  Paul tried to gaff it but it still, incredibly, had a lot of energy.  Okay, now what do we do.  Paul was finally able to gaff the tail and it started to drag backwards.  Just as he gaffed it his metal wire snapped off.  That is how close we were to loosing it.  Unfortunately, Paul did loose his favorite Wahoo lure but at least we got the fish.  Paul hauled the fish into the cockpit and we all looked at each other and said...."That's a lot of fish".  Sushi is on the menu for a late lunch/dinner tonight and will be on the menu for a while.  Anyone want to send me some good wahoo recipes we will gladly except them.

The Wahoo was at a weight of approx. 35 lbs and was 55 inches long. 

We put Paul on Fishing suspension until further notice.

Current location 3.26.83S  100.36.70W  about 650 miles into our 3000 miles passage.  We did an average of 190 miles yesterday. 

We are all doing well and enjoying life out at sea...thank goodness cause we sure do have a lot of time out here.

May 6, 2008

It's amazing how the scene scape changes out here.  One minute is can be one thing and the other minutes it's another.  It's due to the clouds, wind and waves.  Today we woke up to go solid winds at a beam, with one reef in the main and doing a steady 7.5.  Last night during my watch we were flying at a steady 9.  After Paul's watch I couldn't sleep, the war was waging between the pontoons.  Paul was narrating the war; it was really funny.  Cannons a go!  Siege fire!  We decided to slow down a bit to make it a more comfortable night.  So, with all hands on deck we reefed the main and gib and we were happily going 7.5 as we are right now.  It has been a little bit bumpier but everyone is doing great.  It's a day when we all sit and read.  Merric and Paul are reading about Crocodiles and I read him a book on Bears.  Seanna is playing house and running all over the boat like we were on land.  Doesn't faze her.  Paul and I can't stop laughing at each other about her.  As I write, she is fixing herself a little snack of cheedos.  She climbed up the counter and got her own bowl and served her self.  Poor thing cause she just told me they are a bit stale but they are still yummy tasting with her head tilted to the side.  She is a mermaid.  That's what you used to call me, dad, when I was a little girl.  I remember when I would get sea sick and you would stop the boat and let me swim in the water to make me feel better.  When I would get on deck you would tell me it's because I am really a mermaid and do better in the water.  It's the little things like that, that I remember out here.  You have so much time to think and remember.  

our current position is 2.49.285 S  97.15.958 W if your keeping track on the map. 

We have been getting hit with squid and flying fish all night.  The boat is a little fishy smelling and so are some of our clothes.  Last night I was doing a little "peek" and I stepped right on a moving flying fish.  Enough to make me jump high enough to fly right out the boat.  I was laughing about it later as I grab some kitchen tongs to pick him up and throw him back in the water.  Paul wants to keep some of the squid to cook for lunch so tonight we might put on the deck lights for about 30 minutes and pick them up and stick them in the fridge.  Talk about fresh calamari, eh! 

Still haven't put a line in for more fish.  Can't seem to figure out what to do with it all.  If and when it calms a bit we will make a big sushi night. 

500 miles done...another 2500 more to go!

Better go get some fresh air.

May 5, 2008

We are a few hundred miles into our 3000 miles passage from the Galapagos on our way to the Marquesas.  The seas have been great and everyone is doing excellent on board.  I still can't believe I am doing this and I am on the friggen boat!  We are doing really good speed right now and hope to make it there in 20 days or so.  It's really nice out here...today we spotted a really large shark.  It passed behind the boat but we are not sure if it was a whale shark.  We had a bird stay with us for the day and we named her Sunday (she survived).  Real pretty sea gull with big black eyes that were surrounded by red circles.  My watch is the first one from 9 to 11:30 and the nights (except for last night, my watch was full of rain) have been incredible with so many stars you don't know where to begin.  We don't see the North star anymore (haven't for a while) but we now see the southern cross up high.  Behind and around the boat we always have loads of glitter since we churn up the phosphorescence. 

We caught 4 tuna (one was half eaten by a shark) and 3 mahi mahi since we left.  Needless to say, we are not fishing anymore since we don't have any more room to store it.  We eat fish for lunch and dinner everyday.  I made some incredible spicy tuna that you guys would have loved!  Today I made Dolphin sandwiches that everyone raved about with cheese, avocado, tomato and a lite herb Mayo.  The rolls were home made by a local bakery in the Galapagos and they were sweet and buttery.  I made a fish chowder, like white clam but with fish instead and that was awesome.  I am thinking about making some fish enchiladas tomorrow for lunch.  So, that is the excitement of my day!  I read my only two English magazines a few times already.  Heck, I know what I am asking for x-mas....Magazines.  It's so easy to read on the boat and I love the variation of it.  But, really think about it...I am reading during 15+ knots of wind with about 8 foot waves with heavy chop in between and we are cruising at around 8+.  Not a lake out here by any means but comfortable enough to read...maybe I am just getting used to this.

I miss you guys and thanks so much for writing me back.  Especially you Tara!  It was so nice to hear from you and now have your address in my sailmail address book.  I changed your address name to Tara Desmarais, see above.  It's so cool to see that!  I miss that last name....

Just went outside to do a quick peek around and MAN it is dark out there.  I like it when there is a bright moon so I can see but the pro is the stars.

Well, everyone just went to bed early to catch some zzzzz's before their watches.  I do a bit of a longer one since mine is first.  I am up anyway and I get to sleep the rest of the night.  I do from 8 ish to 11:30 and sometimes I am wide away and don't wake up Paul till mid night.  It is really nice sometime just to sit with him outside when I get relieved from my watch.  It's the only quite, alone time we get. 

I really can't complain since my crew is really great.  We are all getting along great and give each other space when we need it.  We have excellent silent communication.  Except when Gerald sees us going over 9+ knots then he is yelling, "ALRIGHT, 9.3 COME ON 9.4". 

Better get to my watch...

May 3, 2008

Day 1 of .... (Gerald is estimating about 21 days)

Okay, so as of today, 3:00 our time- 1:00 Canada time, we lifted both anchors and set out of the port.  We put the fishing lines in the water not even 30 minutes later and then "Fish ON!!!!!"  We caught two - 10 lbs Yellow fin Tunas.  As we put the lines back in, finished taking pictures....Zoom the lines went out again.  Two more 10 lbs tunas but just as Gerry was reeling in his line a shark ate the whole thing but the head.  That's fine since we have more than enough tuna for a couple of dinners and I have no room in the freezer right now. 

We are at a steady 7 knots with the wind at about a beam to close reach.  We should start feeling the regular trade winds soon which will be about 15 to 20 from our stern quarter.  We are happy to be back out again and in our little cocoon.  It's a dark moonless night and the stars are just spectacular.  The glitter (phosphorescence) in the water is sparkling all around the boat and the breeze is cool.  Enough to put on a long sleeve shirt and pants and I am still chilly. 

1. San Blas

2. Colon/Canada
3. Free Spirit is born
4. Bocas Del Toro
5. The Wedding
6. Patrick and Julie
7. Waiting for the Canal
8. In route to the Galapagos- emails
9. Galapagos - emails

We got a slip at Panama Canal Yacht Club (PTYC) and yuck is that a dumpy place but we really couldn’t beat the price and location.  The upside of things, right now, is that we are going to Canada for the holidays and we will be able to purchase or order things we need and figure out what we have to do.  Canada was just spectacular! 

The few days before we arrived they had a good snow storm which left a few feet of snow on the ground.  Enough for us to play with for the next few weeks and a few more dumpings of perfect snow to top it off.  We spent day’s snow shoeing, hiking up mount Pinnacle, hanging with family, and enjoying the big beautiful house.  We had perfect weather all the way till the day I left (I was the last one to leave out of the big gang they made it up there). 

When we arrived back to Colon there was one big thing, along with the huge order of replacement parts and electronics, we had to change our name.  Yep, we have changed the name of the boat.  After Paul and I talked for a long time about the meaning of us and our trip and how much we loved the boat, we wanted to give him a name that fit us.  

We came up with Free Spirit.  Because we just are Free Spirits who don’t conform to what is expected of us or what is considered the norm.  We are Free Spirits!  Sailing Earth!  We are happy with the change and the letter just looks AWESOME on the side of the boat. 

We set off for Boca’s Del Toro, Panama to leave the boat, once again, for Pierre and Tara’s wedding.  We ended up spending a week in Rio Chagres (more on this awesome place later) and then up to the Boca’s area.  We had the worst passage (130 miles) with confused seas, winds on the nose after 12 hours and to top it off we had a strong 2 knot current pushing us backwards.  We couldn’t move this boat over 3 knots.  Could you imagine the frustration?  When we finally arrived to our anchorage in Bluefield’s I was ready to throw in the towel.  It was there and then I told Paul, after the Storm and passages like that, we better transit the canal and get me far away or I am going home.  So, our plans were born.  After we come back from Pierre’s wedding we will head back to Colon and Transit to the Pacific and beyond. 

Boca’s Del Toro is a lot of fun!  What a great place for beaches, sailing, surfing and partying.  I could live here if it were not for the no-see-ums….

Now, we came up this way since it was a short flight to Costa Rica and then we could take a cheap flight with Spirit airlines to FLL for Pierre and Tara’s wedding.  Well, of course, our luck was not on our side.  They cancelled the flight to Costa Rica and now the only affordable way to get to San Jose, CR for our flight to FLL is to bus it up there.  YIKES, do you realize what it takes to do this????  He is what it entails… Boca’s is an island and we are on another smaller island just next to it at the “cheaper marina”.  So, the morning we left here is a quick summary of what my itinerary was.  6:00am pick up by Bill (S/V BeBe) to the water taxi.  Take a water Taxi to Changuinola (1.5 hours) to a taxi to bring us to the board town to grab the San Jose bus.  Now when you arrive to the boarder you need to grab all your stuff, check out of the country, walk across a bridge that is so rickety, big gaping holes with all your luggage and holding your kids hands to get the other side to check in the CR.  NOW!!! What I didn’t mention is that that night a heavy rain storm came in and never left.  So, yes, we did all this in heavy rain showers. 

Our rolling luggage in garbage bags shoes sliding on the slick wood of the bridge practically ripping Seanna's arm off with one hand to make sure she wouldn’t fall though the cracks with a heavy back pack on and rolling a 50lbs luggage.  NICE huh?  Paul had one more luggage than me and Merric so he wasn’t in better shape.  I had to laugh once we got across the bridge and looked back at what we just did.  Am I on survivor and don’t know it?  The rest of the trip was fine and the bus drove through Banana plantations and the most incredible mountain side ever (5 hour bus trip).  We went from 90 degrees to 60 degrees on our way to the city.   Grabbed our last taxi to the hotel and crashed. 

We flew into Fort Lauderdale and got ready for the busy schedule before the wedding.  As we got in the first thing I did was try on my brides maids dress to find out my boobs were too big for the dress and although we got the dress up the zipper got stuck.  I couldn’t breath and I swore I was going to die.  After many failed attempts by my mom my dad and Paul came to the rescue.  Only a man could really get a dress off if they needed ha-ha. 

The Wedding, Wow the Wedding!   It was perfect in so many ways.  I am in dream land just thinking about all the little details and all the big details that went into this wedding.  I have to give it to them for making it just magic.  I think if I had to point out one of the best Wow moments of the wedding it would be when Pierre surprised Tara and put a special song on for her.  The song from Elton John, Your song, as it was sung on Moulin rouge.  Pierre twirled his girl and started singing it to her.  We all disappeared from their sights as they shared a special moment.  I couldn’t believe this was my brother.  WOW!  Oh, and I sure did look great in my brides maid dress but Genevieve stole the show with her natural beauty.  Just look at her in the pictures.  Okay, I always gush about my family, I’ll stop...

When we came back to the boat the trip was in reverse, with out the rain and was much better.  I took a picture of the bridge this time as we were rushed across by the waiting semi-trucks just behind us as we walked the bridge.  YIKES!  When we got “home” we quickly got ready for Patrick and Julie to arrive. 

They plan to spend a week with us and I plan to fill up their days with memories they won’t forget.  It started with Wizard beach surrounded by jungle and surfers on horse back, then we sailed to a little island and did snorkling, and made the passage to Rio Chagres.  Oh, the Jungle!  When we arrived at day break Julie and Patrick were greeted by white faced monkeys, squirrel monkeys, toucans, parrots, and the howl of Howler monkeys.  We went croc hunting at night to discover Patrick to be the best spotter and we found a few.  It was so much fun to have them with us.  It was the first time I got to spend time with them above and beyond the family parties.  I will cherish that week forever and hope they come again. 

We made it back to Colon to get measured for the transit thinking we could get trough in 10 days to find out that the waiting list was at 6 weeks.   That is really going to push us back and give us one month less to play in the S. Pacific.  Not only that but Gerald (a friend of the family) and his girlfriend Lucie wanted to transit with us and Gerald already bought his ticket for that week.  He didn’t seem to mind and ended up spending a great 3+ weeks with us before Lucie came and we even went back to the Rio Chagres.  We almost couldn’t get Gerald out of there.  He kept calling us the “Hilton Charges”. 

Emails to family and friends during our canal experience

:

We are finally going through the Panama Canal Tomorrow night.  We have been waiting here in Colon for so long......

Tomorrow night at 7pm (Texas time) our advisor should be arriving to get us ready to go.  We will then approach the locks and wait till the ship we are going with is ready.  Once we transit the three locks (Gatun Locks) we will then anchor for the night in Gatun Lake.  We will start our morning at 6am to do the 20 mile trek to the western locks (Pedro Miguel and Mira Flores Locks).  Our time there should be sometime around 11 to 1 ish.  We heard there is a website that you can actually see us going through the locks.  www.pancanal.com. The boat name is "Free Spirit" and it should give you a closer time on when you will see us go through.  I also heard that the last locks, Tues Afternoon, they have better live cameras.  We will have our kayaks on deck and we will try and wear bright clothes.  If we can we will try and wave to the camera.  Can't believe we are going to be in the Pacific, Finally. 

We have our friends Gerald and Lucie with us for the past few weeks and we have been busy everyday with provisions and getting the boat ready for over a month at sea.  Our first stop will be in the Galapagos and then on to the Marquesas. 

We will keep you posted when we can.  Please pass the word around to your friends and family who are keeping us with us since I can’t update the website. If you would like to write us back please note the message below our names.  We are sending on a high freq radio.  Thanks.

Until then,

Michele, Paul, Merric and Seanna. 

April 14, 2008…

We lifted anchor at 6:30 pm and set off for the canal.  Our pilot, Julio Rodriguez, greeted us with a smile and was just the same thought out the night.  We rafted up to two boats.  Rhythm, a monohaul, in the middle of us two catamarans.  The wind was strong tonight and added to the level of skill for the boats to stay where we needed to be.  By 8:30 the ship was in place and we jumped in right behind him.  Quickly after, the locks closed behind Paul and we started to rise.  The water pressure being pushed in is a bit scary and you feel that the boats are going to get pushed everywhere but we all were fine.  We did have one close chance of hitting the wall but Lucy was in charge of the "Oh shit" bumper.  The key word here is "Oh Shit" and she jumped to the stern of the boat and made sure we were okay.  The wall is rough, jagged and you don't want to hit it!  Other than that we Gerald and I up at the bow lines and our helpers, David and Christine, at the stern.  Paul just listened to the multiple demands from all the pilots on each boat and did AWESOME as our side was the windward and had more stress and needed to do the most correcting during the locks. 

We are the cat on left,See the water level?  On the second picture the locks are opening. 

….

The canal experience was neat!  Amazing that the locks that are in use are the original from over 100 years ago.  We had no accidents and did really well.  I as a bit emotional when the last lock opened into the Pacific Ocean.  The water was rushing from the lock since fresh water, from the lake, was mixing with the salt.  Just like my emotions they were all mixed up.  It's a new place, new people, new waters and bigger ocean.  I am excited, scared and happy all mixed together.  Once again, I am leaving my circle of friends I have come to discover the past 3 years.  I only know about 2 boats on this side.  I met a few new cruisers that were waiting to transit and most likely, if I don't see them in the islands, we will meet again in New Zealand for the season.  That is where most of the cruisers go for the typhoon season.  I am sure I will make new friends along the way. 

We got our visas for the French Polynesian islands.  They gave us 90 days which is great.  We plan to do le Marquesas, Le Tuamotu, and Isle Society (Bora Bora).  After that, we will head to the Cook Islands, Tongo and maybe Fiji if we have the time.  Then we will head south to New Zealand.

April 19, 2008

We are on our way to the island of the Galapagos.  They are about 800+ miles SW of Panama.  If you want to see where we are via Google map you can put in these numbers:  4.55.96N 80.25.23W

We are on our third day out and plan to be out another week until we start to see the Galapagos.  The weather is very calm and flat.  The kids are enjoying the calm seas.  The first day out Merric spotted a hammerhead shark in front of the boat.  It was on the surface just swimming and fining.  That was really cool.  We caught a few small fish the first day but nothing since.  We had four birds come sleep on the boat last night and one is still with us.  We gave it some water and now it doesn't want to leave.

Yea-haw!

We are sailing away now!  We are sailing hard into the wind but staying on our rum line.  Bill and Judy do have to fall off the line a bit to sail but not us!  It's a little rougher so my email will probably be shorter than usual.  I will go for as long as I can...

We had some drama on the boat a couple days ago I forgot to report...

Just as the sun was setting we had three little birds (yeah, just like the Bob Marley song) land on the boat to sleep for the night.  They were really cute and didn't mind us getting close.  They stayed the night all cozy!  The next morning the two birds flew away leaving behind one.  Gerald mentioned that he might be sick or dying.  So we gave him water and he drank (too cute). Lucie named him Friday because that was the day he landed on the boat.  So, Friday found a little spot on the step leading to the top decks.  We gave him water and he just hung out there.  Lucie was watching over him while on the helm.  Paul was busy fixing something up front and then he was walking back and Lucie tried to stop him but didn't get there in time....Paul stepped and killed Friday.  It was very dramatic since Lucie saw Friday take his last breaths and Paul said he could feel all the bones crush.  Lucie was in tears and Paul felt horrible.  Gerry said well we might have just put him out of his misery.  I am just glad I didn't have a view of it.  Poor Friday!

2.03.75N  4.31.43W

Better go, getting a bit woozy,

Michele

April 22, 2008

Our current position is now 1.30.81N  85.36.33W you might be able to plug it in on Google map to see where we are.

We are now on day 6 to the Galapagos.  We plan for another 2 days or so depending on wind.  The wind has been variable and light but that all changed last night just after my watch.  It kicked up to 20 knots and we were under full sail moving fast.  It was Awesome!  Considering we have been motoring a good portion of the time out here it was a really nice change.  Moral is great!  Everyone is doing phenomenal!  Merric didn't even need medicine today and it was quite bumpy since we were booking at a close reach.  Sleeping down below felt like we were at war.  It is now my watch again and tonight the winds are around 15 knots and it makes for a real smooth ride.  (p.s. Annie, we have plenty of fuel, enough to drop our waterline a few inches. hehe)

Today Gerald and Lucie spotted a Marlin jump out of the water.  No hit on the fishing poles today so we plan to change the lures for tomorrow.  For the past few nights our sunsets have been for the story books.  The weather settles and the sky does its trick.  We all sit back and just enjoy.  Lucie and I reflect on how the heck we could have made that quiche in such bumpy weather this afternoon.  I am sure I added a bruise or two somewhere!  Heck, to be honest, we reflected with a rum and coke in hand, HA!  Funny that on the roughest day we have had this passage we were all having so much fun. 

Life is good out here in the middle of no where.  We saw our first ship in days since leaving the Global Highway in Panama.  Our friends on BeBe, Bill and Judy, have been close since we met up in the ocean somewhere 100 miles SW of the Los Perlas.  It sure is nice to have someone to chat with and compare weather reports with.  Safety in numbers, I always say!  I did check into a morning net for the S. Pacific today.  It's a net that keeps track of boats sailing the pacific.  Everyone reports in their current location and weather conditions.  We seem to be the only ones who have found a pouch of wind out here in route to the Galapagos. 

We are looking forward to crossing the equator and celebrating.  A bottle of bubbly is already waiting!  It should be sometime tomorrow afternoon.  If the conditions are great we plan to zig zag over the equator so we can have an excuse to open another bottle. 

I will keep you posted! 

Love,

Michele, Paul, Merric, Seanna,

Gerald and Lucie.

I am not really sure what that means but we have heard from several people that once you have crossed the equator into a different hemisphere you become a Shellback.  You are a Pollywog (check spelling) if you have not crossed.  I am not sure if that is only on water or if you become a shellback over land and by air.  Feel free to Google the history of the Shellback and give me some real info, I would really love it. 

April 24, 2008

Early this morning, 4:30 am, we got a wake up call from Gerald and Lucie (it was the change of shift for them) saying we had 5 minutes.  We reduced speed so we could enjoy seeing the final 00.00.000N.  It switches over to S. I can't believe it!!!!  We are finally south of the equator.  We popped a bottle of bubbly and tossed our coins to King Neptune and hope that our previous donations of an anchor, electronics, my cutco knife, brand new digital camera, water maker, Bikinis, shirts, under ware, caps, and many other odds and ends we have given him in the past will be sufficient enough.  Our current position this morning is 0.14.06S 88.19.40W.  We have reduced speed to arrive tomorrow morning.  At our current speed we would have gotten in at 9pm and we don't really like coming into an unknown port in the middle of the night.  Especially, when it has a reef and rocks in front of the entrance.  So right now we are slowing down enough for us to arrive at 9am or so. 

We have really enjoyed our passage and have come to love the sea.  I wouldn't have said that three years ago during the Carib 1500 passage!!!!!!! 

Talk to you again soon,

Love,

Michele, Paul, Merric and Seanna

About two more days to go till we reach the Galapagos.  The weather and sailing have been great!!!  Merric, without medicine, has been watching movies down below with Seanna. I love it out here.  I think day 5 was key for me to start feeling good and enjoy the ride.  I am so happy to be doing this with my family.  Crazy to think that the next portion of the trip after the Galapagos is three times this trip.  YEP, 3000 miles!  Panama to Galapagos is about 1000 and the next leg it 3000.  YIKES!  The beauty of the next leg is the wind is from the back and you

have a 2 knot current pushing you in the right direction.  So right now we average about 130 miles a day but after we leave the Galapagos and get south to the trade winds and current we will average close to 200 miles a day, YEAH!  It should take us about 3 weeks more or more...ha-ha; not more or less!!!! 

April 25, 2008

Arrive in Cristobal, Galapagos.  Miles done since Panama = 963.

We are here and already have seen a manta ray, sea lions and mosquitoes.  Yesterday, we spotted a whale or Killer whale about a couple hundred yards away and we saw the spray and its tail.  It was too far to distinguish but they say only sperm and killers are around here.  Today, once we arrived we had the customs guys come out and take care of all our paperwork but we decided to stay only one day here and move to another more central anchorage to arrange tours.  Today we did a tour and went to see a Tortuous nesting ground.  We saw ages 1 to 100 today.  They are huge and I got a great picture with the kids and a big one. 

We then went to the beach with lava rocks and saw the oceanic iguanas.  They are black to match the black lava rocks but apparently they change color to their habitat.  Paul is now jerry jugging fuel at $2.50 a gallon.  Better than $4 back in Panama!  Ready to hit the sack for a full night sleep, which none of us have had in 9 days.  But, I have to say that was a very easy and nice passage.  The days flew by and the highlight of our days was when did our morning and night emails.  Thanks for writing and making my day.  Our next leg after we leave here in about a week is 3000 miles.  Yep, that's right!!!!  What we just did was only 963.  We will be out at sea for about 25 days more or more.... but I have to say I am already looking forward to it.  Last night on our final approach I was fearing the land.  I don't want to hit it and I know that there might be fisherman out here.  It's just so much easier in the middle of nowhere at night then near land.  Might be hard to understand but, Dad, I know you do because I remember you saying something like that to me when you came across the Atlantic.

Well, going to hit the sack early after this rum and coke.

April 26, 2008

We had a sea lion party on the boat last night.  When we came back from our tour we found a sea lion lounging in the cockpit at the table waiting for his fish dinner.  Apparently, it is a big problem around here but we found it funny.  Last night, we heard them all over the back steps of the boats but we had everything roped off so they couldn't get up.  The sea lion hair and smell can get old real quick so we are taking proactive means.  But, they are soooo darn cute.  I was helping Paul get some fishing line off the propeller in pretty chilly waters when a sea lion came right under my feet.  Paul and I couldn't stop laughing cause I really freaked me out to see something big and darn fly below me like that.  Plus, I keep thinking about those darn Killer whales. 

On Friday we are sharing our 10 year wedding anniversary.  For anyone who came to the Keys to celebrate with us...yes, it was 10 years ago Friday.  We couldn't have imagined 10 years ago that we would be celebrating our anniversary in the Galapagos.  But, I knew, when I said the vows to Paul that there would be a world of adventure ahead of me and I was ready.

Our plan is to head out Saturday and start our passage to the Marquesas.  We will keep you posted as much as we can.  We don't plan on finding much internet once we leave here so the updates will be few and far inbetween. 

P.S. To all of you who said they enjoyed the site and wanted more pictures... I added some various shots in the photo gallery.  Thanks for all the compliments! 

Michele